Bamboo Grille Offers Taste of the Tropics

I sampled a bit of Bamboo Grille's menu on my only previous visit to the Basking Ridge Country Club, for a charity event at which many local restaurants presented tastes of their best cooking. The Bamboo Grille's entry involved coconut shrimp and was a standout, I recall. It made me want to return to explore more of the tropical-inspired selections at the restaurant, which has all the advantages of the country club vistas, yet is open to the public.

It took awhile to get back, but on a recent steamy late-summer evening, I found not only a large, lively and flavorful menu but an atmosphere reminiscent of friendly, laid-back island resorts, and brought back to me a favorite Hawaiian beachfront vacation.  At the outdoor bar, the laughter of guests drifts in the humid air, while inside, appropriately bamboo chairs, blinds and other tropical touches prepare you for the pan-Asian emphasis of the cuisine.

At some restaurants, where ethnic dishes mix with American steaks-and-chops fare, the exotic cooking may be compromised, but at Bamboo Grille, the Asian-inflected flavors are bold and authentic.

The Tropical Rain Salad, ample in the appetizer-size portion at $5, features crispy candied pecans, hearts of palm, mandarin oranges and crumbled blue cheese tossed over fresh spinach with the tang of raspberry vinaigrette. This would be a satisfying entree for $12, but with the fresh, full-grain complimentary rolls and a cup of soup, it could also be a great meal.

The Chicken and Sausage Gumbo isn't fooling around, it carries full-bodied flavor that would stand proudly on any News Orleans table. Soups may be ordered in cups ($4) or bowls ($5.50).

The Crab Cake Stack ($22) is an impressive rendition of culinary architecture, with two large and perfectly seasoned crab cakes balanced on a foundation of herb mashed potatoes and topped with sweet potato hay, while asparagus laps in the pool of roasted garlic tartar sauce at its base.

Note from Linda: With Lois as my dining partner, we enjoyed a weekday dinner at a restaurant that I've been writing about lately more for the controversy about the supposed loudness of music on some nights. We didn't hear music, but the trip was a reminder that the Bamboo Grille also is a place to get a nice dinner, from a menu with a varied selection, at a price that doesn't have to be too high. On the occasions I have been there, I often ordered a full-sized salad, which is plenty enough.

I was introduced to the restaurant by a neighbor from Basking Ridge center. One of the pleasures of Bamboo Grille is its relaxed atmosphere. It is a little like escaping to a mini-vacation. But the food served is described as being inspired by the tropics — it's not too exotic, but whenever I've had a special request for how I wanted my meal served, the staff always was happy to oblige.

This crab cake stack entree, shared by Lois and Linda with a salad or soup apiece, didn't leave enough room for dessert, but there are enough tempting offerings for another late-night visit, maybe for just coffee and dessert. Bamboo Grille is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday.

Décor: Tiki bar meets upscale country club comfort; it's an airy, relaxing venue.

Drinks: Extensive selection of wines, beers and cocktails, and the option to have  a 3-ounce glass of wine for $4.

Entrees: Asian fusion specialties, such as Bangkok Stir Fry, Pad Thai and Island Chicken, shine but don't detract from American favorites such as NY Strip or Ribeye Steaks, 1 Lb. Porterhouse Pork Chops and Black Angus Burgers.

Desserts: The classics: Key Lime Chiffon, Creme Brulee, Snickerdoodle Sundae and more.

Service: Attentive but not overbearing

Cost: $$

Bamboo Grille

Address: 185 Madisonville Road, Basking Ridge

Phone: 908-766-9499

Email: info@bamboo-grille.com

Website: www.bamboo-grille.com

Proprietors: General Manager John Dourney; Chef Kenny Raymond